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Baker II explore Burlington's sudsy history from early newspaper clippings to modern-day tastemakers, along with some delicious recipes. Score: 5. The Brewer's Apprentice is a behind-the-scenes guide to all aspects of this classic art.

In a series of in-depth profiles, the legends, innovators, rising stars of the beer world share their deep reserves of brew knowledge, insider tips, recipes, and more. Homebrew tastes great, it's inexpensive to make, and it's equally fun to brew old favorites and new recipes.

There's only one thing stopping you from brewing your 1st or st batch: time. Whether it's your kids, your job, or a million other things, it can be hard to find a free brew day.

Then there's the agonizing wait to crack that first cap. But what if you could brew a session IPA in just a few hours? Or if you could brew a sour beer that's ready to drink in weeks instead of months? In Speed Brewing, author Mary Izett shows you how to make it happen. Complete with detailed maps and concise descriptions, this travel guide will help you plan your NYC trip with ease. The lights, the sounds, the energy: New York City is the quintessential American city and unlike anywhere else in the world.

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Brooklyn coverage continues to grow, including hip and happening Williamsburg and Bushwick, classic Brooklyn Heights, leafy Fort Greene, and family-friendly Park Slope. Updated annually to ensure the best and most relevant content. A section on eating like a local highlights what's hot and what will never go out of fashion. We include tips on where to eat, stay, and shop as well as information about nightlife, sports, and the outdoors. Fodor's Choice designates our best picks in every category.

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And Captain Chris Jung has been tossed into a mundane alternate reality where the Shift never happened to languish in a soul-sucking cubicle while his counterpart from that reality awakens in a world sundered. Accompanying her is Chris Jung from the Mundaniverse, who finally gets away from the office like he always wanted to, just not in the way he imagined.

Meanwhile, Meredith Jung and Ezra Rothstein prepare the Orange Pact for the inevitable onslaught by the Lambs of God while the interim leader of Monticello threatens to undermine the alliance. Despite knowing the end is coming, Meredith rallies a final stand against their oppressor. Mundaniverse Chris will be called to fight for his life while Shiftiverse Chris, lost in a world without Vicious Rabbits, will be called to be a warrior once more. And Rita will discover that saving humanity means more than simply saving the world from annihilation.

Chris, Rita, and Meredith have been on a journey that began long before the world came crashing down, a journey that leads to the moment where the fate of the entire planet in both realities coalesce. Across the span of the quantum divide, each must find a strength hidden in a shared past. Thirty years later, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. Hazelnuts for chestnuts. They take our recipes and make them their own. In that spirit, we wanted to create a book with our best recipes.

We arranged the recipes as we make them: by season. As you work your way through this book, you should be able to not only brew our beers but also make up your own.

We hope that you have as much fun as we have had. Now, make some beer. The standard size for making beer at home is five gallons. That makes 50 bottles at a time, which is great for a party, but for small kitchens and apartments, we recommend brewing one gallon at a time, which yields up to 10 bottles. This book focuses on one- gallon batches.

We like the basic three-piece chambered version with base, interior cap, and lid. Plastic can harbor bacteria in the scuffed-up parts along its walls that can then impart off-flavors if the beer is left there too long. This will make you a better brewer in the long run as you learn what to look for. A length of 16 inches will be long enough for a one-gallon-size fermenter; go up to 24 inches for five gallons.

Alternatively, consider upgrading to an auto-siphon, which you can use instead of a racking cane. Star San and One-Step are our favorites. C-Brite is a great rinse cleanser. Keeping some on hand in a spray bottle can be quite handy when brewing. When your beer is fermenting for the first few days, the yeast produces lots of carbon dioxide—sometimes enough to push the stopper off of your fermenter or clog your airlock.

This tubing will help to channel the gas out quickly while keeping your operation bacteria-free. When we first introduced our one-gallon kits we included a rubber stopper and hard plastic attachment that we originally had to saw by hand. It worked well but we got tired of sawing. Now we include a screw-cap stopper with a hole that fits both tubing see opposite and an airlock see opposite. A kitchen strainer works for smaller batches, but unless it can hold 12 pounds of wet grain at once unlikely , for five gallons consider upgrading to a reusable nylon mesh sparging bag and a 6.

Contact with the beer is quick and minimal, so plastic and metal are both fine. We use an eight-inch funnel. Funnels with a strainer or screen attachment are a bonus.

A scale is useful for measuring out smaller amounts. A second pot of a similar size is handy if you have it—otherwise you can get away with a quick rinse and a large mixing bowl for the sparge step. For five gallons, use two large stockpots or one giant one. We prefer to split a five-gallon batch over two pots because everything heats and cools faster and is easier to move. We use the timer on our cell phone. You can usually tell when your beer is finished fermenting by looking.

But if you want to know for sure that your beer is finished fermenting, you can buy a hydrometer, which measures the density of liquids. A hydrometer will tell you if the yeast in the beer has finished converting the sugars from the grains to alcohol. It will come with instructions, but in general, you take one measurement before you add the yeast to tell you how much sugar is in the liquid original gravity and one measurement when you think fermentation is finished final gravity.

If the ABV is falling short of what is listed in the recipe, let the beer keep fermenting. The following is a guide to these ingredients and how they work. For Sources. Grain meets hot water. Grain loses its sugar to hot water. A lot of grain goes into making beer. This sugar gets converted to alcohol by the yeast, so the more grain you use, the more alcohol your beer will have.

Of all the cereal grains, barley has the most maltose the type of sugar that yeast likes to eat and also a strong husk that makes a natural filter.

Wheat and rye are also used, but less often and usually in addition to a barley base. Barley destined for the brew pot is usually malted before it reaches a brewing supply store. Remember sprouting beans in paper towels in elementary-school science class?

This heating process makes the maltose sugars inside the grain more accessible. The same sugar is what makes malted milk balls and malted milkshakes taste so good. The more the grains are roasted, the less sugar they have to convert to alcohol. Most beer recipes include a combination of grains: the lightest, least roasted grains base malts are used to add body and alcohol, while the more roasted grains specialty malts add flavor and color.

Kilned malts are the lightest of the specialties and provide notes of bread and nuts. Caramel malts add colors ranging from honey to mahogany and leave a residual toffee-like sweetness. Roasted malts give beer a chocolate or coffee flavor and a deep, dark hue. Brewing supply stores will do this for you. The liquid yeasts are cultivated from beer and may include gluten.

It provides a light amber color and a slightly nutty flavor. Golden Promise is a Scottish malt that is similar, with a slightly sweeter flavor.

When used as the majority of the grain, it produces a darker color and more pronounced maltiness found in German-style bocks or Oktoberfests. Think more raw cocoa than candy bars, though—roasted, earthy notes with just a touch of bitterness.

They are available on a sliding scale of roastiness from light 10 to dark PALE WHEAT: A handful of these malted grains will help with obtaining a fluffy white head without changing the flavor or aroma of the beer, but when used as a larger percentage of the recipe, these form the hazy, bready core of wheat beers.

Torrified wheat wheat grains that have been heated quickly to puff them up is used in small doses to help with head retention as well. SMOKED: Instead of being cooked in an oven, smoked malts are dried over burning wood, creating a smokiness not unlike the one that clings to your clothes after sitting by a campfire.

The smoked grains capture the character of the wood: Peat gives the earthy and diesel notes in scotch; beechwood lends a more intense, drier smoke aroma; and cherrywood gives a smooth and sweet character. Medieval brewers included roots and herb blends, until they noticed that beers made with hops lasted longer. Turns out hops are a natural preservative.

Think of adding hops as something like adding herbs to a stew. If you add dried herbs in the beginning, their flavor will season and blend into the broth. If you add chopped herbs in the final minutes of preparation, they serve more as an aromatic accent. Make sure you buy hops that have been vacuum-sealed. To extend their freshness, store them in the fridge. Once opened, use within three months.

Although there are no absolute rules when it comes to choosing which hops to add to beer, some varieties Columbus, Northern Brewer work better as bittering agents. Those get added to boiling beer earlier to extract the maximum amount of bitterness.

Other hops Cascade, Hallertau, Saaz are used for their flavor and aroma. Think citrusy, grassy, or floral notes. They often get added closer to the end of the boiling process to preserve their character. Varieties of hops can vary in bitterness from year to year and even from farm to farm. The higher the percentage, the more bitter the hop. All the recipes in this book call for pellets, which are dried hops that have been crushed and then re-formed into what looks like rabbit food.

When substituting whole hops for hop pellets in this book, use 25 percent more. Note: Hops are really cool plants to grow. They can lie dormant for months and then when introduced to some sweet unfermented beer they wake up, reproduce like mad, convert the sugars to alcohol, and then go dormant again.

We like to say that yeasts do the hard work of making beer because they actually turn the beer into beer. Wild yeast strains float like pollen in the air.

If brewers left a tank of unfermented beer open, wild yeast would get in and get to work. Gradually, brewers learned to control the addition of yeast. They reserved some of the sediment from the last batch of beer and threw it in the next batch, ensuring that the yeast would ferment the beer. Two main styles of yeast emerged and determined the differences between ales and lagers. It hovers at the top of fermenting beer, creating a layer of foam. Yeast companies have identified many of the proprietary strains of popular styles of beer and produce generic versions.

Each strain imparts its own particular characteristics, including flavor and aroma. Wheat beers get distinct banana and clove aromas from yeast. Belgian ale yeasts work at higher alcohol levels and can leave spicy notes, while American ale yeasts produce fruity flavors. English ale yeasts allow the malty flavors from the grain to shine. You can buy yeast in dried or liquid form.

While all yeast should be stored in the fridge, dried yeast can survive on store shelves at moderate temperatures for months. Liquid yeast can last for six months in a refrigerator. Occasionally you can buy yeast straight from a brewery, too. Yeast strains for home use are usually sold in packets designed for five-gallon batches. To scale down for a one-gallon batch, use half the packet. Note: For each recipe in this book, we recommend both a general style of yeast and also a specific strain that we like for the particular recipe.

If your brew shop is out of a certain strain, you can use a yeast within the general style. We have great water in Brooklyn, so we use it straight from the tap. Add some to your beer for a boost in alcohol without adding extra body. And contrary to what you might expect given the name, it will actually leave your beer tasting drier rather than sweeter.

Note: All instances of Belgian Candi Sugar in this book are for the clear variety. You might find dark or amber in your local brewing supply store. They will simply add a more toffee-like residual sweetness to your finished beer while increasing the alcohol. Sometimes we start with a classic beer style in mind and riff on ingredients that would work well with that style see Eggnog Milk Stout.

Sometimes we find an ingredient that we really want to use, and search for a style that could showcase it see Apple Crisp Ale. Amber ales are slightly maltier. It has become super-popular in America, where the bitterness quotient has been pushed higher and higher by intrepid craft breweries. See Everyday I. The classic versions are lightly hopped and moderate in alcohol.

The category covers a wide range of styles from the light, spicy saisons to the powerful abbey-style ales. Adding a handful of wheat to the grain mix brings a touch of haze and a bready aroma. The styles range from the light, fruity weisse beers and hefeweizens to the darker, maltier dunkelweizens. Common yeasts for wheat beers leave signature notes of cloves and bananas. See Edelweiss and Cranberry Wheat.

LAGER: Cold-fermenting lager yeasts take longer to work and require cool storage, so we usually make ales instead. If you have a spare mini- fridge or a cool basement, however, the clean, crisp taste of a well-made lager is well worth the effort. See Spring Lager and Oktoberfest. From obscure regional styles to twists on traditional styles, the rest of the beers in our book stand on their own.

First, steep the grains in hot water mash , strain and discard the grains sparge , boil the strained liquid with hops and spices boil , then cool the liquid and add the yeast. Wait a few weeks as the yeast makes your beer for you fermentation and then bottle it with a little sugar for carbonation bottling.

The final step? Open a bottle and enjoy drinking. Brewing, like all avocations and hobbies, has developed its own jargon. Keeping your equipment sterile during brewing might be the most important thing you do.

If your funnels, strainers, fermenter, tubes, and airlocks are not completely clean, your yeast can die or be overtaken by bacteria and wild yeast. In a medium stockpot, heat the water on the stove on high. Any hotter and the grains will release unfermentable sugars, which will lead to a sweet nonalcoholic beer. Stir every 10 minutes and use the thermometer to take the temperature of the mash from multiple locations.

Turn on the heat if the temperature falls below the desired range. Variation for five gallons: Use a large stockpot that can hold up to 6. Pour the mash into the strainer, reserving the collected liquid in the pot. If you have two stockpots, you can get this going while the mash is steeping. Gently and evenly pour the sparging water over the grains still resting over a pot or bowl. Variation for five gallons: Line a 6.

Pour the mash into the bag, straining the liquid into the bucket. If you have two large stockpots, you can get this going while the mash is steeping. Pour the sparging water over the grains gently and evenly.

Recirculate the wort through the grains once. Reduce the heat to a rolling boil and start a timer for 60 minutes. Add flavoring elements hops, fruits, spices at the times listed in the specific recipe. You will add some hops in the beginning of the boil for bitterness and some hops toward the middle and end for flavor and aroma.

Drain the water and refresh with new cold water and ice to make the process go faster. Using a sterilized funnel and a strainer, pour the cooled wort into a sanitized fermenter. Add any water needed to fill the fermenter to the one-gallon mark. Shake the fermenter for at least two minutes, covering the open mouth with one clean hand.

This will distribute the yeast evenly as well as aerate your wort. Oxygen will help fuel the yeast. Plug the fermenter with the sanitized stopper. Put the other end of the tube in a small bowl filled with sanitizing solution. This tube allows gas produced by the yeast converting the sugar to alcohol to get out, but allows nothing else in.

Store the fermenter somewhere dark and cool, like a closet. The bowl of sanitizer will begin to bubble as yeast consumes the sugars.

Around two to three days later, the bubbling should slow from a fast and steady pace to an occasional blip. Replace the blow-off tube with an airlock. Variation for five gallons: Since the five-gallon fermenter may be too heavy to shake, tilt it onto an edge and roll back and forth along the edge for two minutes. Prepare a sanitizing solution. Thoroughly rinse 10 beer bottles, removing any sediment. Fill each bottle with enough sanitizing solution to swish around, then pour out the solution, letting the bottles dry upside down.

If you are using sanitizer that requires rinsing, though, make sure you wash it off completely. You want the sugar to be thin enough so that it will blend easily with the beer. Attach the tubing clamp to one end of the tubing. Fill the tubing with sanitizing solution and clamp the tube shut. Attach the other end of the tubing to the short end of the sanitized racking cane. It should be a snug fit. With the free end of the tube over the sink or a small bowl, and with the end of the tube lower than the bottom of the racking cane, open the tubing clamp.

Like magic, suction will force beer up through the racking cane and out of the tubing. Let the sanitizer flow into the sink or bowl until the beer begins to come out, then close the tubing clamp. Over the pot with the bottling sugar, release the clamp and let the beer flow, mixing with the sugar. Tilt the jug when the beer level gets low, but be careful not to suck up any of the yeast sediment in the process. Siphon the beer from the pot into the bottles with another gravity siphon, leaving one inch of headspace at the top of each bottle.

Let the beer sit in a cool dark place. The bottling sugar provides fuel to wake the yeast and carbonate your beer. Variation for five gallons: Prepare 50 bottles instead of Springtime brewing is all about aromatics.

Lighter beers start to emerge. Belgian blondes make great base beers for subtle floral elements or delicate herbs. In the spring, many brewing supply stores sell cuttings from hop plants, called rhizomes. You can check your local nursery or search online, too see Sources. Just use a really large planter. A five-gallon bucket with holes drilled in the bottom can work in a pinch. A mix of regular potting soil and nitrogen-rich compost one with animal manure will work best.



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